My DIY Projects and Great Adventures

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Originally Posted by catchNgrease

Is depth of bait and amount of UV factored into this.

Sent from my E6910 using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app

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Light is considered to exist in wave lengths ( actually particles ). Long slowly oscillating wave lengths do not penetrate water very well. Short fast waves lengths penetrate much better. Red is considered the slowest of the visible wave lengths and penetrates the least amount of distance. Violet the shortest and best at penetrating water. It retains it’s color at deeper depths. Faster still is Ultra Violet and it penetrates very well.

The amount of UV light available depends on the Sun ‘s intensity due to cloud coverage, it’s angle to the water and the clarity of the water. UV can penetrate much deeper than we would normally fish.

good looking jigs and great ideas

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Got my curly tail baits in. Here I have a french blade on left and an Indiana blade on right. This will produce two different sounds and two different sets of vibrations over the range of speeds they will spin at. A selection.

I also got my Do-It wire forms for the “HS-34” 3/4 ounce hammered spoon lure mold.

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And…….they don’t fit. Not even close. The feller what was over at that other site told a whopper. Said they fit when they do not. Maybe they did at one time, back when he said so, but not now.

So…..I am going to order a tool called a one step loop tool, and get it in size 1.5 mmm. It is a crafts thingie. This will allow me to cut my wires in half getting two from each. From there I will bend the ends to lay alongside the hook shank. Measure my distance, then insert it into the tool, squeeze forming the loop and cutting off the tag end. This should allow me to fix the problem of wobbly wires, which bothers me to no end. It would be like painting a lire only to watch it peel off when it is finally finished.

If the loop forming tool does not work I am buying a dremel and gonna hack my way to success. I imagine it catching just so and gouging a huge cavity, ruining the mold. It won’t, but I imagine it to, so am avoiding it.

My collection of go to jigs is getting sorted out nicely.

I have a selection of spinning blade jigs in sizes- 1/32,1/16, 1/8, 1/4. These have curly tail grubs that match up with the sizes. 2” and 3”. I even took a five inch grub and cut it down to fit on the 1/4 ounce to make a mega bait for those days I want to try to get a huge crappie.

I also have a selection of jigs with no spinners in those same sizes, with curly tail grubs and BG Stroll’Rs.

Then I have a selection in those same sizes with various other baits such as paddle tails and minnows and such.

Finally I have a nice compliment of tubes in sizes 1/32 and 1/16 sizes, with the special shaped heads that fit up inside without ripping the plastic.

I made all of my own jig heads of course and I am really liking that Size #1 sickle hook. It fits my molds in almost every size cavity, and I am losing very few fish with it. Deep sets, barely set in the lip, I am getting the fish in the stupid boat. Every time one shakes free I quickly ascertain it to have been my biggest ever and that ain’t much fun.

I also made an executive decision regarding my complete and total frustration over the line wrapping around the tip of the rod. I still cannot not see how it wraps into these complicated macrame designs so easily. Unbelievable the way this happens. I tried 6 lb mono, wrapped up. I tried 8 lb mono, wrapped up. I tried 10lb braid, wrapped up. So now I am trying 30lb braid. If it wraps I am breaking out my old surf fishing line and I know that stuff doesn’t wrap.

Using a Nail to Nail knot to connect a 2 - 3 foot section of 6 pound mono. Then I have a small quick change connector tied onto the end. That so I can swap jigs without having to tie a whole new section of leader onto the line. Two kinds, one looks like an open ended hook and they are easiest to use but also weakest. Then there is a curly Q looking chinese devil which is tricky to use but rock solid. I am using the chinese clip. It is actually smaller as well. I get freedom of movement without having to tie. Although I plan to experiment fastening the line tight to the hook’s eye in front, or behind in an effort to tilt the jigs. The bladed jigs are not running horizontal, rather crabbing through the water pointed upwards.

I should just buy Beetle Spin harnesses and forget about all this jig head spinner stuff, but I am dumb and every so often require punishment. Seems that is my lot in life anyways. Trying to have fun and here comes that old devil to frustrate me. If I ever catch him up in my apple tree…..well that will be the end of him.

I used pool noodle pieces to set out the jigs I preselected and that works pretty good. I select various designs and colors and create an assortment and try to stick with just those. Of course the suitcase filled to the brim with jigs is available, but I am trying to convince myself that what I have will work if I find the fish vs. thinking they just want a different color. I have seen days when each philosophy was both correct and incorrect. Leading me to surmise that crappie must be fickle hateful little fish. I suspect the other fish shun them due to their flawed personality traits.

They ar e tasty though and the old woman liked the blackened crappie fish tacos I made special for her. I say special because I had to clean the fish. She was working. Usually I like to take a nap and awaken to the fish already cleaned and in the fridge. :) Especially after a hot day having to fight that trolling motor’s wrong headings, and line wrapping around the rod tips. 16 foot rod…..and there it goes again.

I might start tying jigs again someday. Kind of miss that a little. I do like wrapping thread around the hook shank and gluing my plastics. They really hang in there and I can lift the fish into the boat, offer some slack and let him shake free, and raise the rod and reel in a little and cast right back out and place rod while tending to the flopping fish. Don’t have to swing the jig in to me and adjust anything. I like getting the successful jigs right back out as quickly as I can. Before I get too far away from that spot.

Anyways I might visit Hobby Lobby and get the looper today after work. The woman is dog sitting her sister’s two obnoxious and never trained and aggressive mutt looking dogs. I plan to drive over after work and visit her a little. I told her that the house was haunted and exactly which room the spirit is using. That was perfect as I hope she runs screaming in terror straight back home to me, and her very well behaved examples of canine discipline at it’s very best. If I have to live with a dog, it has to live with my rules. My rules.

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That is looking really sharp. You have a whole lot going on in that tiny cavity now once you add a hook. If it doesn't work out let me know. I can send you some of these stainless steel eye inserts I posted a pic of the other day. Takes little to nothing to allow them to fit and the best system I've found. Just have to widen the stem part going into the head just by the slightest bit. If you have problems with head filling all the way make sure to insert the spout of the pot directly into the gate of each cavity. This will help force the lead all the way to the tiny barb if you want to call it that.

I had issues with completely filling the cavities on all my molds. I heated the lead a little hotter but still. I have a two pound Rowell ladle and figured it’s size was an issue, so got a bottom pour :ee pot. Nope still an issue. Got a Lyman dipper and still an issue. Finally figured out that if I inserted the nipple into the sprue cavity, then tilted the dipper it filled beautifully. I suspect it isn’t being forced in though, rather the heat of the nipple keeps everything hot. Could be because it is forced, but that was an excellent tip. Thank you.

If I have an issue I will forgo the ring and go with a sharp bend.

My goal is to be able to tie line to thehook eye and also to this eye so as to attach jig as a drop shot for two jig rigs. I could tie each line, or simply slip the line through each, then around and thru again, and then around and thru once more to hold. Tying second jig to tag end of course. Hopeful that this will work with long lining, but if it doesn’t it will be good for spider rigging. I have issues when using two jigs as one always seems to wrap around something. Rigged in this fashion I hope to avoid fouling. Obviously this eye needs tp be secure in order to manage this.

The looper tool makes it very easy to form a loop. It even cuts the wire perfectly once it has. One squeeze and done. I wonder though if my wire is too strong for the tool, as it is a jewelers tool.

For your short fill issues there is a product called Drop out that comes in a spray can. Shake, spray, wipe, no more issues. Costs about $10 and lasts a long time. I have been using the same can for about ten years and still have a little bit left.

I got an idea as to how to add an Underspin wire with just the very slightest amount of modification to the mold. Ingeniously simple, too. If it works, I will be able to add an Underspin to my Free Style and my Bat Jig molds as well as my Herring Head. This will be easier then piddling with stupid little pieces trying to insert them just so, or having to bend them so they stay secure. Also I will be able to adjust the amount of downward extension, and so smaller jigs with smaller blades will work, or smaller jigs with larger blades will work. It should also be easier to paint the heads.

Tonight when I get home I mow the lawn and then I will see how my idea goes. I have been very leery of modifying my molds, but Dr Nip has encouraged me to at least try it. So baby steps it is.

After so much disappointment in the design of the Do-It Herring Head Underspin Jig Mold, with its ridiculous wire situation. I mean using the mold as instructed left me with wires that simply fell right out when finished using the thing. So I tried this, then I tried that, and now this is my last attempt I think.

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This is my Bat Jig Mold, with a #1 EC hook. It does not have a spinner of any sort.

MODIFICATION: I bought very small files at Harbor Freight for $4. Nice little set. I selected the shape best suited and applied it GENTLY. I stroked alongside the hook shank tunnel. With the tunnel, to widen its channel just enough. This mold already takes a wire bait keeper, so I only needed stroke one small area. I think three maybe four times. I actually checked in between them for fit, as I was only certain of one thing, being my first attempt to mod a mold, I wanted it to end up tight. No lead flashing through. As in snap shut tight.

So I cut those wire forms to use for wire, the ones I bought recently, and laid that little section of steel with bent tip, piggy back fashion along that hook shank in the tunnel. Half effort for each side too, mind you, otherwise you get an offset, won’t glide properly.

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Mold filled in its usual way, and the results were unremarkable in that regard.

The wire is solid and it is able to be bent to build at least two things…..for now. A wire bait keeper can easily be made, wire easily bent and trimmed to length. But I like the spinner blade idea. Beetle Spins are said to be great lures, and they and those spinner baits we think of for bass, both use triangle shapes.

This wire came out beautifully aligned, too. Sits up against the shank perfectly. Yes- I did get lucky. I was able to slide a needle nose down between when cool, and separate the wire and the hook, and bend it slightly near the head. I also cut away the collar on some to move that bend even further forward.


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Paint went on the easiest of any so far. I simply dipped the dumb head, no shielding, no pliers, just heat and dip. I did have to use my jig pincer thingie to clear two eyes when done. Super easy. Loved it.

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Crinkle finish…..I noticed that the silver crinkle begins to move at about 175 F. I plan to set my toaster to that and then apply the heat gun- blowing against the silver to see if it can be shoved around on the surface. Never know. I plan to try it. Experiment some with it.

Anyways here they are out of the oven, first one assembled.

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This is a quarter ounce Bat Jig head, a #1 Eagle Claw sickle in the evil Black and Chrome finish, three inch glow type grub.

The wire is rock solid. No movement at all. This can be used to “tune” the spinner bait, just like the Bass Masters do.

This means that I can make lures that can accommodate big plastic baits and big blades. I can also make little lures that have little plastics and little blades. And everything in between. It also means that I can add a wire bait holder to any mold really. Can add an under spin to any mold too I guess. It really could not have been easier.

Some suggest positioning the wire, assuring it remains in place, and striking with a hammer or using a vise or Dremmel. I chose file because my fingers are not those of an artisan.

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Same quarter ounce head, but jig on left is using a 1/0 hook and a two inch grub, and a nice willow leaf. That larger hook wanted more room so I squeezed the mold together harder, and then cut away the extra flashing. Once I decide which hooks I really like, I plan to modify, but for now I plan to leave it working for the #1 size. Then there is the wire keeper. The Do-It wires are a lot harder to manage. Trust me. These wires are easily laid along side the hook shank, no fancy shapes to conform to. The bend can be moved around anywhere inside the cavity and still get buried in lead. A ton easier.

So I can scale my spinner jigs according to head size, and then use different lengths of wire to move smaller blades in closer, larger blades away some, different shapes, colors and styles of plastics. Nice diversity. Small baits with big spinners, big baits with little spinners. Need to “tune” the jig, easy enough with just your fingers. Move the blade in closer, extend it out further, not problem, use your fingers. Moving wire to 90 degrees gives maximum distance, and if more distance than that is needed, I will just use a longer section of wire.



Gonna paint some spinner blades up, too. Yup…..UV enhancements with a series of lines over top. Shamelessly steal ideas from them there Walleye people. Salmon folks, too.

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Here both wires have been flexed by my fingers into jutting out straight down. The blades will still spin at their most efficient speeds. Wire’s angle doesn’t effect that because the swivel is straight back both ways. Best position to spin freely, so best in slow speeds. Not sure how many re-adjustments that wire will sustain, but I imagine once tuned it wouldn’t need attention.

I could also skip the blade, swivel and ring and form a loop on the end of the wire. Then make that jig the top one of a two jig setup, running line from the underwire to a bottom jig. Have the bottom jig using a spinner. Could experiment with them very close together, or them spaced in normal fashions. Suspect each jig would move differently, and that fouling would be reduced. I hate tangled lines. Just hate them.

So I am excited that Dr Nip offered me some encouragement to think out side the box and mod the mold. The Herring Head no longer has my favor. Even the Freestyle can be my Huckleberry now. Really any mold that can have it’s hook shank gutter widened ever so carefully, to allow the thin wire to be laid beside it.

I can cut away the lead collar, or leave it and add Chenile over top, doesn’t matter unless you like Slab Sauce. Then it makes a big difference. So if there is a mold that you like, but you always wished it had a bait keeper, or a whirling blade thingie, well I kind of figured out how you could manage to make that happen. Really nothing to be intimidated by. Dr Nip knew I wasn’t gonna destroy any molds. I just kind of followed his lead. You can manage fine. I know that because I didn’t throw my mold through the garage wall. No dirty words.

I am keeping my mold. I love it. Underspin Bat Jig…..hmmmmm

That stinks.

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