Casting question (Not really Jig Related)

[tdibiasio]

I recently purchased a Do-It mold for casting "removable" split-shot. I have tried many attempts with different types of lead (wheel weight, mixed, and pure soft lead flashing) and I am having the hardest time with getting a quality cast out of this mold. Most of the casts are not complete and the ones that do come out OK are not as "sharp" with regards to profile. I have tried maybe 10 different casting sessions for these and only have a handful of splitshot that I would consider using or giving to friends.

I really want this to work but am on the verge of just giving up on these and just buying commercial split shot - would be a shame though as I have spend $30 on this mold :-(

Any advise would be really appreciated

Tom D

[Rubber Minner]

Are you getttin the mold warm before pouring? I use a Lee Production pot, and I sit my mold on top of the pot to let it heat up with the lead.
When ever I dont heat it this way, I have to run 6-8 heads with no hooks just to warm the mold up. Any heads or split shot that dont make the cut, go back into the pot.
Hope this helps.

[Cray]

Are you getttin the mold warm before pouring? I use a Lee Production pot, and I sit my mold on top of the pot to let it heat up with the lead.
When ever I dont heat it this way, I have to run 6-8 heads with no hooks just to warm the mold up. Any heads or split shot that dont make the cut, go back into the pot.
Hope this helps.

I agree. I use a cheap single burner hot plate to keep my mold warm especially when it is cooler since i don't have heat in shop. Found this to be really necessary when using wheel weight material.

[PBUG2009]

I set my mold on top of my heat pot also. While the lead warms up...Once my lead is liquid i leave my mold on there for 15 more minutes...Also dont forget to flux the lead really good when using wheel weights!!!!

[Fatman]

wheel weight and mixed forget it and I'd make sure where you got your pure lead flashing it might not be as pure as you think. Make sure your mold is really warmed up pour a bunch with without worrying if they come out or not it's just to heat the mold up.

I don't know what kind of melter you have, with a bottom pour put the nozzle right in the hole and pour with the mold tilted down, it may help the lead flow better. I'd also run the temp up a bit on your melter and as others have said flux well.

If you have a camera, make a pour open the mold and take a quick clear photo = remove them and take another phot0 of what you're telling us is not complete. Maybe between the two we can help you more.

Fatman

[HOGGHEAD]

Do you have a thermometer?? What temp. is your alloy??

I have cast with all types of lead. Personally I do not think your alloy is your problem.

IMO it has to do with:

1. Mold temp at time of pouring.
2. Temp. of your alloy(not hot enough)
3. Did you clean the mold??
4. Your pouring technique.

Are you using a bottom pour pot, or a dipper, or a ladle, a spoon?? How are you pouring your simkers??

If you are new at it and have a multiple cavity mold then you are having a temp. problem.

What I suggest is that you use a Lyman pouring ladle. If you don't have one then buy one. And second I recommend you only pour one or at the most two of the cavities at a time. Learn how to cast first. Then use the other cavities when you have it down. However right now you do not have it down.

Pouring should be done in a cadence to attain consistency.

Start counting under your breath and make sure you do each step at the correct count. Learning a cadence will greatly increase your consistency in casting. Then figure out places where you can increase your speed.

Leave the ladle in your alloy and let it remain hot. The alloy must pour freely from the ladle, and not stick to the ladle. And by all means heed the advice above and heat your mold. Also clean your mold with spray brake cleaner and alcohol. It also never hurts to smoke the mold with a candle.

Last but not least. You can always make your alloy a little more forgiving by adding Tin(Tn.) to your alloy. Tn will make your molds fill out better if mixed in with a lead alloy. But Tn is expensive.

And for closing. The smaller an item, the harder it is too pour correctly. So just keep in mind that you are trying to learn how to pour, and you have chosen the hardest thing to pour to start with(as concerned to sinkers, definitely not tougher than ultralight jigs). Take your time, it will come. And don't try pouring all the cavities. Start with one, or two at the most. Tom.

[skeetbum]

Thanks for that, Fatman. I'm new to pouring and had a somewhat successful time with it this afternoon. Lots of incomplete's and flash, I don't think my #6 hooks work in the mold right. May need to do a tiny modification to let the hooks sit in the cavity better. All of the info you just gave helps me understand it a bit better. You da man.....Skeet

[tdibiasio]

Guys

Thank you so much for the fast and informative responses, with regards to the set up - here is what I have:

Lee bottom pour melting pot
I have tried several alloy temps between 700 - 900 degrees
I put some powdered flux in the mix but will now need to pay closer attention to the amount
I coated the mold with a spray can "Mold Release" before using it and actually before each time that I attempted to use since
I do have a hot plate that I heat the mold up with before and during the casting session

It appears like I just need to tweek something to get it right - with regards to the output I actually have had success with the larger size split shot but not the smallest one - the only one I am really intrested in. I do have some tin but have not used it yet as I am unsure on the percentage to lead to use??

I will attempt again today and take some picture along the way to show my results to provide a better base for further suggestions.

Thanks again for all the advise.

Tom D

[skeetbum]

My session this morning was better, less flash and almost all completes. Pouring 1/32 and 1/16. #6 gave me a hard time yesterday in the 1/16 so I used #4 today, much better. Also poured 1/32 and then 1/16 and didn't try to do all the cavities at once. Easier for me, didn't feel as hurried. Almost ne trim. I don't see me doing thousands of these with the standard do it molds, but it's cool. Another step along the way. Thank you also, Hogghead. You're all teaching this rookie all the time.

[Redman]

Had problems with a mold that did the same thing as yours. I ended up makeing the sprue hole alittle bigger. This has to be done slow and don't go over board. A small tool on a dremel is all you need and work carefully do one caveity at a time. That is my thoughts on it. Sounds like you are doing everything ok just a slight defect in the mold is all.

Redman