Need a little help from you guys

[skiptomylu]

Okay here is the deal, I clean my jig heads before painting by filing the little ridge all around and any other stuff near the eye. I use a hand file or I use my Drimel tool on low (10,000 RPM) with a wire brush wheel. Now the little wire bristles keep coming out and go every where, I do use glasses as they also hit me in the face all the time. If I use the hand file my arthritis kills my hand holding the jig heads so both ways are just not fun at all.

So do you have a different method for this? Something that will help out? I tie way too many jigs to keep doing that the way I am. So please anyone that has a better way please let me know.

Skip

[Pup]

Just curious. Why would you accept production quality jig heads that are ridged (I'm assuming burrs) from a vendor?

[skiptomylu]

Just curious. Why would you accept production quality jig heads that are ridged (I'm assuming burrs) from a vendor?

They are not bad by any means, but I want them smooth. Mostly just the seam that comes from the mold. It is not like stuff is hanging all over the place, but if you know someone that make heads that don't need any touch up I am all ears.

Skip

[Pup]

They are not bad by any means, but I want them smooth. Mostly just the seam that comes from the mold. It is not like stuff is hanging all over the place, but if you know someone that make heads that don't need any touch up I am all ears.

Skip

Gee-Whiz,

Don't tie for any part of my living, but Galyan's (before they became absorbed by Dick's) had really low-priced, unpainted, retail jig heads that had no burrs on the head or collar surfaces. Their leaden, jig head forms seemed to have no seam.

The hook points beat Ultras by a long shot imho. Manufactured in China, I believe.

You'd have to have lived in Indiana, pre-buyout, perhaps.

[jigtwins]

Skip, I have been using a rough scotch brite pad to remove the casting lines from the heads that I pour. Just hold the hook and rub the head on the pad, and it smooths it right out. I got the scotch brite from a local auto body paint supply shop. It is dark brown and pretty rough, but it leaves a nice finish on the lead. If you PM me your address I will send you some to try out.

[skiptomylu]

Skip, I have been using a rough scotch brite pad to remove the casting lines from the heads that I pour. Just hold the hook and rub the head on the pad, and it smooths it right out. I got the scotch brite from a local auto body paint supply shop. It is dark brown and pretty rough, but it leaves a nice finish on the lead. If you PM me your address I will send you some to try out.

I have used that stuff before and just had not thought about it, but that sounds better than what I have been doing.

Skip

[skiptomylu]

Gee-Whiz,

Don't tie for any part of my living, but Galyan's (before they became absorbed by Dick's) had really low-priced, unpainted, retail jig heads that had no burrs on the head or collar surfaces. Their leaden, jig head forms seemed to have no seam.

The hook points beat Ultras by a long shot imho. Manufactured in China, I believe.

You'd have to have lived in Indiana, pre-buyout, perhaps.

I don't use my jigs to add anything to our income and if I did there wouldn't be as much materials as I have to use. I have probably taken or paid for maybe $500 in over the last 3 years. So if it was for income I wouldn't do it at all.

So none of this counts to my living and if I quit tomorrow I would actually make more money in my pocket just going fishing, LOL!

I am sure some try to supplement their income doing this, but I am not one of them.

Will keep looking though as I hate that part of this jig thing. I just can't with my health do this without adding pain and that is becoming a real pain in the rear. Even thought of getting someone near me to clean them up like I want and pay them a little for their trouble, but I wouldn't pay much for that and not sure anyone would want to do that.

Skip

[Blackhawk19]

Skip, have you tried both the brass and stainless steel brushes. One idea i have is that you could get a piece of plexiglass about 18'x18" and make some brackets to mount it on where it sits on your table and slants away from you. Then you can reach around it and do your jigs behind and you won't get hit in you face with debris.

[poppop]

Skip, I am thinking I have seen a super small electric bench grinder somewheres, maybe a jeweler uses it with a small plexiglass cover on it. Might be something worth checking out.

[skiptomylu]

Maybe there is a tiny grinder with cover and I will see what I can find.

Yes I tried the carbon steel (best so far), brass and ever stainless, but the stainless it too much for the lead and the other two just trow that stuff out like crazy. With the Drimel being low at 10,000 rpms is a bit much so I know the 30,000 rpm will just be a lot worse.

Maybe Drimel makes something I can use with that other piece I have never used and I think some have used that thing with some kind of speed control which would help a lot I think.

Thanks guys,
Skip