Steering question

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Originally Posted by gabowman

Just rambling....but would it be possibe that the motor isnt squared onto the tramsom causing torgue trying to steer it left? Sounds like the motor is crooked opn the back of the boat or the linkage is crooked causing it to bind.:confused: Might be worth looking into 'cause I've had friends with 40 hp stick steers with no problems at any speeds. BUT...as I said...just rambling.:o

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Looking at the motor... it certainly looks centered and squared. But I suppose, there has to be a way to measure and check.
This problem could be "over my head" ... so to say.

I originally thought, it was just the nature of the beast. But a good friend of mine has a stick steer 60 horse and he drove it... and... I think his words were.. "Damn... that ain't right" or something like that. And then, "you should get them to fix that before it runs out of warranty!"
Which is what I might have to do... I just hate having to run it down there and leave it knowing it would probably be a week before I get it back for a 5 min. adjustment.:rolleyes:

I really appreciate all the thoughts and ideas.

Most steering tabs on lower units are sacrificial anodes. They will dissolve as intended, and will over time completely dissolve if any stray current is present. Surface area is critical to compensate for steering rotational torque.
Check yours compared to new.

Another possibility is that the tube bushings are binding where the steering cable slides through on the engine bracket. With the boat on the trailer and the engine OFF, have someone press on the cavitation plate with their foot to apply pressure forward, as if the motor was creating forward thrust. Try the steering and see if their is any change as pressure is increased on the cable.

Also check to make sure that the boat is trimmed level. Port to starboard, not bow to stern. Take a long level and place it across bow while you are idling and the steering is easy. Check again at a speed that creates hard steering and make sure that the vessel is still running level. Some hulls, on plane at speed, especially aluminum, will change the running angles due to deflections on the hull below the waterline, created during construction, as well as stumps, etc. Trim tabs were invented to compensate for these factors. You may be able to shift weight, ie. batteries, fuel, ice chests, etc. Also check to see if you are running with a full live-well (water) that may be located off the centerline of the vessel.

Lots of factors translate into steering pressure, hope it is an easy fix.

boatstall

I have a 16 1/2 ft stick steer with a 40 hp e-tec which has tons of torque, boat is a heavy alumncraft with a step down bass hull. I fought my stick for quite some time and found a sweet spot can be found by adjusting the trim tab a little at a time. You are not going to have it both ways slow or wot. When I leave the dock for the first time on all trips I find that sweet spot at wot and don't change my tilt for the rest of the day. With enough hp your hole shot should be fine. Your trim tab should have notch's so you can adjust one notch at a time. Benny Ray down on Talquin has his set all the way to the right and it handles fine. My trim tab is set for no one sitting in the rear but I still have some pull when fishing with a 250lb. back seat rider. It's the nature of the beast (a stick steer) but believe me once you get it right you'll never go back to a steering wheel I know I wont.... I use to pull on mine til my arm was sore now I can just leave my hand resting on top... Good luck but remember I'am only a 800 pound gorilla in the room. SAM

http://www.marinemechanic.com/New-Folder2/trim-tab.gif

This is what they're talking about Bro:D

This is how and why

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=250928