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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimp
Short answer: loop to loop connection!
You need to add a piece of mono to the fly line and put a loop in that. Then, add a loop to the butt section of your leader (most leaders you buy come like this already.)
Here's a very good explanation of what I'm talking about:
Gary Borger » Perfection Loop and Connector
Check this out, too.
http://www.redchaser.com/looptoloop.htm
Sorry, I missed this question before. I wouldn't go bigger than 1/64 oz.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimp
just the info I was needing, thanks again.
The usual progression is popper to dry fly to wet fly to nymph to get increasing depth. The nymph generally being a weighted fly IOW more or less a sort of jig. If you match the size of the lure to your line you can fish them all on the same rod/line, definitely so if the depth isn't very much. Do a loop to loop as has been suggested or learn to tie a proper line to line knot to renew the end (tippet) of your leader when it gets too short. Before commercial tapered leaders fly fishermen made their own tapers by stepping down to smaller and smaller leader sizes by doing that sort of line to line knotting. Unweighted wet flies, nymphs and the tiny weighted or unweighted streamers can be deadly on panfish.
Came across this site and thought I would pass it along seems to be some really good prices on some things. Home page
I live in North west Florida and fly fishing for brim, shellcracker, and bass is my favorite fishing in the spring and summer. I would suggest when you get a rod and reel get a good one. If you are like most who try it, you will be hooked. I have use a fly rod for 20 plus years and I would recommend a Temple Fork in a 4 or 5 weight and a 7 1/2 foot length. The rod is light weight and has supper tip action. Be sure to size your fly line according to your rod weight. Line comes as Level, Tappered. Double Tappered, and Weight forward. I have used all these and prefer the weight forward. Weight forward enables you to throw a very accurate cast with very little effort. Reels are not as important as the rod and line because they simply hold the line. Automatic reels made by Martin are the best but because of the spring and larger size they tend to be heavy. I use a Temple Fork standard manual reel which is light weight and balance the rod very well. The Wal-mart rod combo's are bulky just do not feel good while casting or retreiving that 1 lb shell cracker. Bass Pro does have a great selection and would be the place to start. Fly fishing is adictive and one of the most enjoyable forms of fishing you will experence. I will start my fly fishing very soon and I have already started getting my gear ready. LOL Lots of luck with your fly fishing
Cabela's Fly Fishing University:
http://www.cabelas.com/browse.cmd?ca...3Bcat104721480
What about these : No Knot Eyelets, Knotless Fly Line leader connectors :dono
Would you give them a http://www.crappie.com/crappie/images/icons/icon13.png or http://www.crappie.com/crappie/images/icons/icon14.png
... cp :kewl
I have never used them, but a friend of mine grew up using them. He likes them a lot. The description said they were for #6, 7, 8 and 9wt fly lines. So, if you were using a 4 or 5wt line, they might be hard to insert into the tip of the line. For $1.99, though, it's worth a try. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by crappiepappy
They're "old school", for sure. My Grandfather had them in his fly line. I inherited both of his fly rods/auto reels ... stored the reels, trashed the line, and used both rods for tightline or slipfloat fishing for many years. I think I even inherited (or bought) a pkg of those barbed eyelets. They sure made tying a leader onto the fly line, a very simple process.Quote:
Originally Posted by deathb4disco
... cp :kewl