Don't get it close to the POINT 1.
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Don't get it close to the POINT 1.
Lawrence Rep once told me to check if my Point 1 was calibrated by doing this procedure;
Turn on the Heading Extension and the Course Extension. Find area on water that has no wind/waves and no current to affect boat travel direction. Slowly motor forward in straight line. The course extension line will cover the heading extension line if the point 1 is calibrated. If they are two separate lines it is not calibrated.
I have tried this and it seems to work.
I like bbc ...
It's entertaining at times ...
Rickie
Yes this is true. I use this technique to help stay on a point. The blue line is worthless at this time except for aiming anyhow (sitting still ). I also use the measure tool. The measure also gives a visual of direction change and distance from the point. It tells me how sorry spot lock really works. I mostly use spot lock for pee lock. Sometimes I turn on my range beeper and hit spot lock when I hear the arrival beep. Don't use this technique much anymore caus I can't hear dodo anymore. I like to set off a brush pile and chunk roadrunners past the pile and crank em back. I love me some roadrunners. I only do this when I am by myself up front and have lots of room in the boat or if I am in my Jon Boat.
Cane Pole I am a roadrunner guy also. love to cast them to brushpiles that I sit back off of and swim them through. With the Point 1 and the range rings set to the 25' radius I can fish the target without having to drive over it which I am convinced spooks fish sometimes. I also think the roadrunner will catch the larger fish out of the brushpiles I fish. The last boat I bought did not have a i-Pilot with SPOT LOCK for the reasons you stated.
I have a trolling motor on the back of my pondtoon to counter the SPOT LOCK (moving me in on the spot). This arrangement works. I need lots of practice with this arrangement. I also use the range lines.