-
Just like Cane Pole said...RF is generated in your TM (or other 12v source)...not the Xducer...
The depth finder (or depth finder coupled with the iPilot/iLink) is "receiving" the RF ....not "causing" the RF...(usually inducted thru the Xducer cable)...
People too easily blame RF on the depth finder when the depth finder is not the "cause"...the depth finder is the "effect"...
The boat's 12v power system (TM included) is generating the RF "somewhere"...and its "bleeding" into the depth finder system "somewhere" ...(xducer cable, Ethernet cable, iPilot system PC boards, head unit, etc)..
There's only a limited number of ways to "capture" RF before it reaches the depth finder head unit..(ferrite rings, shielded cabling, neg to ground, programming filters, etc)...
Then it's time to trace down the "source" that's "causing" the RF....12v power somewhere..
Its just a process of elimination until the "cause" (or source) is found and controlled...
Johnson outdoors and Humminbird do many things to try to keep RF from affecting user's dealings with RF...(shielded cabling, ferrite ring in the PC11 power cable, programming filters, etc)....
JO and HB also go out of their way to help users control RF if it is found in certain setups...(advice on boat wiring, ferrite cores, etc)...
RF just happens and it's frustrating I know...
But it's not the depth finder's fault...it's the 12v power (TM included) somewhere in the boat's setup...
Find the "cause" (12v generated RF) and the "effect" (head unit displayed RF) will not be "affected"
Rickie
-
Ok guys I do understand that the probable source of the rf is the trolling motor . I guess I should have said the rf is coming THRU my transducer and its cable instead of saying it was coming FROM the transducer and its cable. I simply resolved the problem by using an external transducer instead of the internal US-2 , I did this because after a couple of calls to HB support the problem was still there , I was not offered a free noise kit , it was never mentioned and was told to be sure the transducer cable was not routed close to the power cable , but they did exactly that when they designed and built this product.they did send me a pc-11 power cord after I requested it . It did not help.My opinion is that when you manufacture a trolling motor that is a known source of rf and offer it with a built in transducer your begging for rf to end up at the customers depth finder. if the noise kit is free they should put one in the box with each motor they sell.Maybe I got ahold of a couple inexperienced tech support people when I called for help, I've learned more from this thread than I did from them. I realize i could keep working on it and maybe get it to work properly,I'm happy with the terrova and my 2 HB depthfinders but for me the US-2 option was not worth the trouble. Thanks for your help and input I do appreciate it !
-
x-2 shouldnt even be an option us-2 sux
-
One note, when I upgraded to the ipilot link on the terrova a ferrite ring came with it to install inside the base of the TM . I had some rf problems when I had a motor guide and went through all the tail chasing. It all works perfectly now. I know it is frustrating but stay after it.
-
I've got a new Terrova with US2 and a 788 up front....no interference at all...I mean NONE. I think this is the first TM/ FF combo I've had that didn't have at least a little receiver desensitivity on it. My trolling motor does not share power with anything else though.
-
I have a new US2 Fortrex and the interference is bad (Lowrance HDS), a lot worse than the Maxxum it replaced. I have the choke, ferrite cores and finally made some adjustments to the df to make it tolerable. If I had room on the tm for a 2d transducer I'd put one on it, but the LSS-1 transducer takes up pretty much all the space on the motor. I called minn kota and they were no help. Their customer service is not very impressive IMO.
-
-
I have the same problem. Where did you disconnect the US-2 transducer? In the TM head.
Thanks
-
Yes , there is a threaded connector in the head disconnect it then on the bottom of the head remove the plug that the cable passes through , slide the cable out and then replace the plug, I was gonna just leave it there and not us it and run the external transducer cable right beside it but I'm sure I'm done trying to get the thing to work and I wanted a clean look so its gone :-)
