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  1. #1
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    Default color change

    I'm using essential plastic and don't get it over 350 usually 340 I add about 6 drops of stabilizer to it but after 2nd reheat it changes color makes it usually darker. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Or is it just the nature of plastic? Thanks

  2. #2
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    Are you heating and stirring in short increments?

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    Yes no more than a minute at a time

  4. #4
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    On initial heat I do mine for 1.5 minutes and then 20 second increments.
    Likes shortdraw LIKED above post

  5. #5
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    Before the plastic has a chance to set up after the initial cooking add some stabilizer and stir it in good so its in the plastic before you hit it with heat again. Also, the essential plastic doesn't need to be brought up to 350 or even 340 for the reheat. Try bringing it to 330 using 20 second shots and stirring between hits with the microwave. If the plastic is a lump turn it over between the shots of heat.
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  6. #6
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    If your reheating I use scissors and cut up the plastisol and heat in short bursts . Im reheating 1/2 cup amounts . Cutting it up solved my burning issues. Also adding stabilizer is your friend��
    A Proud member of Lake Allatoona and Lake Weiss (Team Geezer)

  7. #7
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    It's the plastisol i had the same problem!! And i use stabilizer and a digital thermometer. Cub48

  8. #8
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    Something a lot of people over-look when they are working with ANY plastic in a microwave is that when you heat a cup to, say 350 degrees, the plastic will continue to cook to a higher temperature after it has been removed from the microwave. The larger the volume, the higher they after-cooking temp can get and the longer it will continue to cook. Essential is the most forgiving plastic there is when it comes to heat tolerance but if allowed to get too hot it like other plastics will turn. Stabilizer helps buffer any higher heat within reason. Its most likely not the plastic product but rather you need to figure out at what temp to remove the heat source from your plastic so that this after-cooking doesn't over-heat the plastic yet still gets it to conversion on new plastic or at what temp the re-melt has fully melted.

    If you are using a microwave, cut a cardboard panel to fit the glass plate inside that your cups set on. These glass trays with a glass cup on it can create some real bad hot spots and the cardboard will help break that possibility up. Even the Pyrex cups can develop hot spots within the glass they are made of and if you are not aware of this you'll be toasting any plastic you put in there.

    Most plastic issues are started at the operator.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by CTom View Post
    Something a lot of people over-look when they are working with ANY plastic in a microwave is that when you heat a cup to, say 350 degrees, the plastic will continue to cook to a higher temperature after it has been removed from the microwave. Not exactly. It will have a hot spot in the middle but doesn't continue getting hotter after you pull it.

    The larger the volume, the higher they after-cooking temp can get and the longer it will continue to cook. I am cooking half a gallon at a time in one shot (2 microwaves at a time so 1 gallon gets cooked at once, no stirring in-between) and I have yet (in 5 years cooking like this) to see this happen

    Essential is the most forgiving plastic there is when it comes to heat tolerance but if allowed to get too hot it like other plastics will turn. How can you make a statement like this when you only use Do It's products? I have used just about every plastic out there (have some coming from a company that only services the production side of this industry and haven't tried Polysol yet) and I can say from my experiences there are a couple that are FAR more forgiving than anything from Do It (CC or Essential)

    Stabilizer helps buffer any higher heat within reason. Its most likely not the plastic product but rather you need to figure out at what temp to remove the heat source from your plastic so that this after-cooking doesn't over-heat the plastic yet still gets it to conversion on new plastic or at what temp the re-melt has fully melted.

    If you are using a microwave, cut a cardboard panel to fit the glass plate inside that your cups set on. These glass trays with a glass cup on it can create some real bad hot spots and the cardboard will help break that possibility up. Even the Pyrex cups can develop hot spots within the glass they are made of and if you are not aware of this you'll be toasting any plastic you put in there.

    Most plastic issues are started at the operator.
    Here are some replies to some things in your comment that I just don't quite understand or have found to not be quite correct, but hey, I only pour baits for a living and cook on average 30-40 gallons a week, so what the hell would I know about this.
    Likes snake River LIKED above post

  10. #10
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    [QUOTE=Angler's Choice;3275658]Here are some replies to some things in your comment that I just don't quite understand or have found to not be quite correct, but hey, I only pour baits for a living and cook on average 30



    My comments are coming from my observations while I am cooking. I see things different from you. I have several plastics on hand and am not exclusive to Do-It, but do get MY best results using their plastics. You're right though.....even if you go thru 30-40 gallons weekly as you suggest, there is no way that you can know what I experience doing my own thing. At one time I had a great deal of respect for you but you can buzz off now and I'll leave this site to you and your cronies.

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