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A few tips that may help.
1. I like oblong floats with pegs or spring clips that I can adjust the depth of lure(s)<br>
2. light jighead IMO between 1/32 - 1/16 oz get the lure down and allow nice action<br>
3. tail shape makes a difference when float fishing. Curl tails are the last shape I'd use wherea spike tails, Crappie Magnets, float & fly and straight thin tails do well.
4. a low wind (8 mph or less) with a bit of chop gives lures a bounce; I move the float 1' ever so often for a gliding action whether breezy or still
Examples:
Attachment 445416 Attachment 445417 Attachment 445419 Attachment 445420 Attachment 445421
https://www.crappie.com/crappie/imag...BJRU5ErkJggg==
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and to further this agenda , one pinch point on a weighted float beats two :highfive
bites are much more easy to detect if they are on the light side.
expensive thill weighted floats are the cat's meow if you need to reach out and touch someone when you are casting :cheers2
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Don't like round bobbers except in the past when I used live bait in the middle of summer (neither of which I've used in decades).
I like to see the initial dunk of the float's quill followed by it disappearing beneath the surface. But key in getting that strike is the use of finesse action lures that are smaller in size. Fish seem to key in on them until their patience runs out, and then BANG! FISH ON! Hair jigs, spike tails, Crappie Magnet double tails, mini-sticks rigged from the front or wacky rig amoung others generate more strike potential. As important as lure size and design is that it be presented horizontally/ perpendicular to the line. JMHO
