What determines line poundage

[scrat]

Just what really determines the line poundage or breaking strength. Seen a lot of posts about people catching say a 10 pound fish on 4 pound line. I would say that if it were 4 pound and you lifted a 10 pound fish with it it was really not 4 pound breaking strength line. I think with the new lines that have came out the diameter is smaller but the breaking strength is really more than that what the actual breaking strength is. A line company could make a small diameter line that had a 20# breaking strength and just say it was 4# test and everyone would be happy with it as to say I caught a 18# fish on 4# test line when really it had a 20# test strength so to be fair or to tell the truth it should not be called 4# line.

[CrappiePappy]

No one is going to be "lifting" a 10lb fish on 4lb test line.

Line "pound test" is measured in pounds of pressure at the breaking point. I'm pretty sure they test samples of their product on a computerized machine. And, yes, some do "fudge" on the results. But, there are some companies that comply with IGFA certification that says the listed "pound test" of the line IS the breaking point ... like Ande, Maxima, Fin-Nor, and others.

I, personally, have caught a Bass around 6lbs on 4lb test line (Stren Gold), while Crappie fishing. And I landed the fish ... but, I did NOT lift the fish by the line or rod into the boat. I landed the fish by hand. I netted a Freshwater Drum of about 25lbs, caught by my late fishing partner using 4lb test line (Stren Gold). So, yeah ... you can "catch" fish that weigh more than the pound test of the line you're using, but few are "landed" or "brought on board" by just the line.

I'm also reminded of a trip where my fishing partners & I were catching Crappie in the 1.5lb range. My partners saw me lift my fish into the boat by holding the 4lb test line we were using, and decided to do so themselves. All they managed to do was lose 3 or 4 of their biggest fish of the day, when their line broke. We were all using the same line, from the same spool, so it couldn't have been the line's fault. The problem was that they were "excited" and were trying to "yank" the fish out of the water & into the boat, whereas I was using the momentum of the fish coming towards me and gently "lifting" the fish into the boat. Their "clean & jerk" style of lifting was putting more pounds of pressure on the line than the breaking test of the line. As you probably already know, you can break some pretty heavy pound test line by "popping" it between your hands ... but strain to break it simply by "pulling" it between them.

[NIMROD]

Like Crappiepappy said . Suppose to be breaking strength with no damage . I routinely swing in 2 lb fish with 8 lb test line but if you grab the line short , any defect , and fish flops it may still break from time to time .

[scrat]

Thanks this answers most of my question on line breaking strength. I once worked in a yarn plant and we had a tool that we pulled the yarn to a breaking point to measure the breaking strength of the yarn so I assume that most of the companies are just using the least breaking strength as there pound rate. So companies that comply with IGFA certification should be the only line to be used in tournaments where they claim to catch trophy fish on light fishing line.

[Alphahawk]

I fish 2# test line almost exclusively. I regularly catch smallmouth in the 5-6 pound range. The 2# test line I use the most will test out between 2 and 3 pounds. But I use several lines out of Japan that are rated at 2# test and will test out at a breakage of two pounds. I also have some 1.5# test line out of Japan that will test out at 1.5 pounds. I never dead lift a fish with 2# test line...never....not even an 8 inch bluegill. If one wants to go for a line class record you have to send your line in to the IGFA and let them test it....no matter if the line is stamped "IGFA rated" or not.

Regards

[deathb4disco]

I never dead lift a fish with 2# test line...never....not even an 8 inch bluegill.

Same here.

If your drag is set correctly, and you don't horse the fish, it's amazing the fish you can land with light line.

[deathb4disco]

A line company could make a small diameter line that had a 20# breaking strength and just say it was 4# test and everyone would be happy with it as to say I caught a 18# fish on 4# test line when really it had a 20# test strength so to be fair or to tell the truth it should not be called 4# line.

I think line companies already do that. I've read a lot of comments over the years saying such-and-such line is "the strongest 8# line you can buy". Well, it's probably not 8# line. It's probably 10-12# line with an 8# label.

FWIW, I pay more attention to the diameter than the pound test. The stated diameter could be off too, but something measured in thousandths of an inch will be more accurate than 4# or 6# or 8#.

[CrappiePappy]

FWIW, I pay more attention to the diameter than the pound test. The stated diameter could be off too, but something measured in thousandths of an inch will be more accurate than 4# or 6# or 8#.

You could probably tell if that is true, by checking the diameter of two different brands that are IGFA certified & of the same pound test. Their pound test rating should be the same, shouldn't they ?? Of course, they'd have to be the exact same "type" of line. You couldn't measure copoly against copoly coated fluorocarbon, or even regular fluorocarbon, or any of those against straight monofilament.

Examples shown on this site : Mels-Place.com - Monofilament, Copolymer, Fluorocarbon & Braided Fishing Line Diameter Comparison

[Tennessee Trey]

Also remember that knots almost always decrease line test.
A poorly tied knot can cut the line test breaking point in half.
Learn to tie quality knots and always moisten the line before you cinch.

[Crestliner08]

Excellent comments here. I would only add that I regard line "weight" (test) in terms of depth and speed control that I am trying to accomplish. If I want to fish slow and deep, I'll use a "lighter" line than if I want to fish quickly and shallower.

These days, fishing almost exclusively for crappie, I've settled on a 2# test fused main line (Fireline Crystal) with a 4" test 4' fluorocarbon leader. This cuts through the water quite well, assuring me the depth control (and no less important, sensitivity) that I most often require. And the leader affords me the abrasion resistance and shock absorption that is required for a successful day on the water.

Finally, I'll either use a net or hand-land any fish I catch. Very rarely do I try the "swing in" technique portrayed on a lot of bass fishing cams. And if I were to try for a line weight record, then I would only accept an officially designated IGFA class rated line, such as Ande.