The guy that built my boat had my front graph running off the 24 volt for my trolling motor and the graph not only had major interference but got very hot when I had the charger plugged in.
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The guy that built my boat had my front graph running off the 24 volt for my trolling motor and the graph not only had major interference but got very hot when I had the charger plugged in.
Another little trick that eliminated interference for me when getting power straight off the cranking battery... Make sure you have plenty wire, then add some more as it will get shorter with this method. Take your pos and neg wire(same length) and put one end of each in a vise. Chuck the other ends in a drill. With the wire stretched out at full length, turn your drill on and twist it until you get about a couple turn per inch. Easier to run too. Eliminated the interference I had..
here is what i did. i put two batteries in my front compartment and plenty of room to spare for charger, tackle, crank boxes, etc. this short distance to my trolling motor allowed me to use heavier gauge wire with no problem running it. right now i have a 12v power drive v2 and utilize both batteries and should i find a absolute steal on a 24v terrova i can change in a matter of minutes to accomodate it... i still have two batteries in the back, one for cranking, one for everything else. if you have the room this is, IMO, the way to go....good luck
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...5-11-14003.jpg
I wouldn't run anything (except possibly simple electronics) on my starter battery. My 50 hp tldi Nissan requires a minimum 850 cca battery to run. I want to be sure I can get home! However, smaller motors don't need as much battery--my old 25 hp motor used a motorcycle starting battery, as do my elec. start 9.9 hp motors.