Since I went to SS I wouldn't go back. Best money you'll ever spend. You shouldn't have to buy another prop. Hubs are about $40 to get pressed in.
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Since I went to SS I wouldn't go back. Best money you'll ever spend. You shouldn't have to buy another prop. Hubs are about $40 to get pressed in.
because they just look darn sexy!!!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by petercreek
the big boys down at the pool hall say "huh, what kind of wear???", guess I never had a motor big enough to suffer from premature wear, although I ran a 15 johnson from 1974 to 2002 with the same prop, never locked the motor down and jumped a lot of logs, stumps and rocks in south Arkansas...anyhow, I was just throwing in my 2 cents...maybe it was just negative thinking...
I have a 25hp Tohatsu, which is the same thing as a Nissan. I put a SS Solas prop 13 ptich, on about 3 years ago, but was not enough go power for me , so I traded a buddy with a 14'boat for his 11 pitch prop, and holy crap!!! Props are a good thing, but make sure you get the right pitch or you won't get take off, but might get top end, or might get take off and no top end, or when you hit the nail onthe head, it all works out like magic. I would not go back to any of the 3 aluminum props I had before this. i have hit numerous "things" (with the ss prop) in the white and Arkansas rivers, and only have a couple nicks in the 1 blade, wher eI had replaced the Al props 2 times. The only good thing about al props, is you can bend it back if it bends. But then again, if you bend a ss prop, you got other problems.
Really, really fast. There are some WMA's in Arkansas that have hp restrictions to 25 or less. A small army of Arkansas hunters have modified 25's that are running north of 30 mph. Some are running far north of 30.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabowman
The reality of it is, selecting a prop is pretty difficult if you don't know your engine's RPM's. If you don't have a tach, a Tiny-Tach is a small investment that will tell you engine RPM's as well as operating hours. It will also help with oil changes. I mounted mine on my tiller arm.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...H/TinyTach.jpg
Once you've determined your engine RPM's, you'll want a prop that gets you to your max rpm's with a normal traveling load. I really like the folks down at Power Tech in Louisiana. Give them a call with basic RPM information and they can walk you through prop selection. I like a stainless prop.
My Tohatsu runs 28.9mph stock with 2 people and duck hunting gear, with only a little gas additive. No mods... yet. Once the mods take place, should be over 35 with 2 people and hunting gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wind Knot
BTW, Nissan/Tohatsu motors are some of the easiest motors to get the mods done on, pretty much just a gasket replacement, and maybe a little timing to do it to the max.
I bent or broke blades and had to replace a number of aluminum props until I went to stainless. I've been running stainless props now for better than 25 years, and I would never go back. All the guys I duck hunt or fish with run stainless props also, and none of us has ever torn up a lower unit because we hit something with it. When I'm duck hunting, I'm jumping logs and beaver dams, hitting the bottom in shallow water and hitting all kinds of logs, limbs, brush, etc., so I've been giving them a good test. I've never had any trouble other than the occasional burr which I could file off. I agree with the comment above that you're more likely to tear up a lower unit running a regular prop with a bent or broken blade.
What JigginPole sez; me too.Quote:
Originally Posted by JigginPoleJoe
DP