Video you say! I've been talking about transitioning from written word to video. Might just have to do it this year
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HaHa: 0
Great write up Rich ...
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Rickie
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Video you say! I've been talking about transitioning from written word to video. Might just have to do it this year
Sent from my SM-J320V using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder""G" LIKED above post
This is why crappie.com is best source of info. Really takes time and focus to write such a article. Crappie anglers have to continue to get better. Thanks
wicklundrh LIKED above post
good info, I tried pulling some cranks last year. I have line counters and had help calibrating. Not really sure what depth I was fishing and seemed to snag about everything I could find. I was pulling the flicker shad and the 500's that are talked about on this forum. I was running two poles out the back pointed out horizontally on each side.
this looks like it might help
If you don't already have it, I suggest the Precision trolling app. Quick download that comes with several free lure depths and setbacks. You can purchase individual formulas or the entire package of lures.
This gives you the ability to know the exact target depth of the lure based on the amount of line let out where it enters the water.
This is created with divers in the water measuring exact depths. Speed is a key factor along with line diameter.
Sent from my SM-J320V using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"
From what I just read on offshore tackle the tadpole might not be good for flicker shad or 500's. Not sure but looks like it might trip when pulling them, I think my biggest issue is my pole holders, the line is in the air for several feet before it hits the water. I try to use the chart on the flicker shad or 500. I think I need a better way to have the line at water like a planer board or different pole holder. Not trying to highjack this thread, I read something then I go buy it and end up with another gadget that might not work.
I know they say the bigger lipped baits might or can cause them to trip but I and a couple of friends have used them with bandit 300 and Arkie 350 with no problem with them tripping. That's not to say the won't just our experience. Love pulling the smaller flicker shad with them it's like they were designed for each other.
How about postin a picture of your pole holder set up and maybe some of us can help with some suggestions.
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Charlie Weaver USN/ENC 1965-1979
Exactly Cray:
Some of the larger billed cranks will definately trip them but we have found that the smaller ones do not trip them (certain ones). It depends on how aggressive they dive along with the amount of action they throw out. A key here is that they are not specifically designed to dive crankbaits. We had to try a lot of different baits to find ones that worked for what we were doing.
In the event that we have a crank that trips the tadpole, we switch over and run OffShore "Guppy weights". You can run them inline (about 4 foot above the crank) or as a snap weight. These can help get you down to depth really quickly. We use the dive curve of the "Guppy" and then add the dive curve of distance from the crank to the Guppy.
Example: We are targeting crappies in 30 feet of water. They are suspended at 16 feet down. We want to fish slightly above them so we want our offering at 14 feet. We are going to use the "Inline" method. We place our 1oz Guppy weight 5 feet in front of our #4 flicker shad. 5 feet of line out on a number 4 flicker shad will make it dive 2 feet. So, we know that we need 12 feet of help to get our bait to the target of 14 feet. The amount of line needed for a 1oz Guppy to reach 12 feet is 31 feet. That is how much line will be played out in order to get our bait to dive to 14 feet.
Because it is Inline, this 31 feet is from the bait to the point where it enters the water. As stated, 31 feet with a 1oz guppy will make the offering reach 12 feet. The 5 feet from the guppy to the crank will help it dive an additional 2 feet for a 14 foot total. Just a little math on the subject.
By itself, the terminal depth of a #4 flicker minnow is only 7 feet with more than 200 feet of line. We can double the depth with only 31 feet. Many ways to skin a cat.
With a number 1 tadpole using the exact same formula as above, we only need 15 feet of line out to reach the exact same target depth of 14 feet!!!!!!
Less line out equals more time in the water with less time letting out line!
I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"
Potatoe,
No reason to apologize. No hijacking here. It is a valid question. As you have found, they were not specifically designed to dive "lipped" crank baits. We have however found that they will dive certain ones (as mentioned in the above post). Floating rapalas with small bills, non lipped cranks, and flicker size #4's all work (from what I have tested). That said, in the above post, I gave another specific option for getting the baits to depth. Unfortunately, unlike the tadpole, the "Guppy" weight doesn't trip. A big key as many crank bait fisherman will tell you (crappie that is), is when you hook a crappie on a crank (if not running planer boards to spread it all out), you want to hold the rod high for a little bit in order to make the crappie come to the surface. Failure to do so could result in tangles as you reel the fish across your other offerings while it is in the water.
With a Tadpole, you can do this as it trips, with a guppy however, you cannot. I do NOT recommend the guppy method when not using planer boards unless you are well versed in how to setup your trolling spread to avoid this issue.
When I find time, I'll see if I can do a writing up "Exactly" how we setup and run planer boards. Including the key component that everyone always asks me.... (relates directly to avoiding tangles).
You are correct though, finding a good way to ensure you know exactly how much line from the tip of your rod to the entrance of the water is key.
I have OCD "Obsessive Crappie Disorder"
Thanks for the info, going to keep following this thread. Not sure I have a good picture of pole holders I currently have. I basically made a bar on the back using the seat post. I only have two holders one on each end. They are pretty high up from gunnel, so the tip of rod is pretty high up. I am thinking to purchase the Ram Rod 2000 and just bolt to gunnel be more adjustable. I am running just two poles that are probably beginner entry line counter reels and trolling poles from Scheels.